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Jeonju is the capital of post Baekjae, and the birthplace of Joseon Dynasty 500 years ago, therefore it's acknowledged as a millenary city. In order to taste the authentic bibimbap and experience the real hanok, we decided to visit Jeonju.
「全州」是後百濟的首都,也是500年前朝鮮王國的發源地,因此有千年古都的美稱。為了品嚐正宗的拌飯,以及體驗真正的韓屋,我們決定造訪全州。
Transportation to Jeonju
Korean motoway is quite similar to ours, but their barriers are much higher I suppose.
It took approximately three hours from Seoul to Jeonju by express bus. The chair was quite big and comfortable, but the heating was too warm and I sweat a lot.
從首爾搭高速巴士到全州,大概要三個小時。巴士的位子很寬敞也很舒適,只是暖氣有點過強,害我狂飆汗。
Jeonju Hanokmaeul
More than 700 korean traditional houses gathered in Jeonju Hanokmaeul, it has been reckoned as the biggest traditional village in korea, and there are many heritages located in this area as well. We caught a cab from the city centre and head to Jeonju Hanokmaeul, the whole journey is like a sudden throwback to the old times. After taking a map from the information centre outside Kyeonggijeon, we decided to choose Kyeonggijeon as the starting point of our adventure.
「全州韓屋村」匯集了七百多間的韓屋,號稱韓國國內最大規模的傳統韓屋村,更有許多古蹟座落於村落中。我們坐著計程車從蓋滿摩登建築的市區一路到這,彷彿有一種突然回到過去的錯覺。在慶基殿外的服務中心拿了地圖後,我們決定從慶基殿為起點來展開我們在韓屋村的探險。
Kyeonggijeon
Kyeonggijeon was built to attend portrait of first king Taejong as Lee dynasty was founded 600 years ago. In the past, everyone who arrived here should dismount from their horse and outsiders were forbidden from entering; but nowadays it has become a public space like park which is very interesting.
Woods in the court is beautiful, I guess it would be more beautiful in autumn. Kyeonggijeon is also famous as a hot location for dramas.
院子裡的樹林非常漂亮,但我想秋天的時候景色一定更美;聽說這裡也常被當做拍戲的外景地。
It's Suping's shooting time again! Those bamboos are wonderful.
At the back of the palace, we found a conspicuous well surrounded by the stone wall.
後面有一口被圍起來的井,看起來特別醒目。
Korean hospital
Outside Kyeonggijeon, there is a Korean hospital caught our attention by its old and striking decoration.
慶基殿旁有一間韓醫院,外面的擺設有點誇張但還挺好玩的。
Pungnammun
Pungnammun symbolizing Jeonju was originally South gate among 4 gates of Jeonju castle, it's located in the middle of a traffic circle. Writing of "Honam's first castle" is hanging on as it is the only existing gate of Jeonju castle. Honestly, it's not as big as we expected.
全州的象徵「豐南門」,是原本全州府城四大門中的南門,它位於道路圓環的中間,因為是目前僅存的城門,所以上面掛著「湖南第一城」的匾額。說真的,比我們想像的小很多。
Top choice of Jeonju bibmbap
Ga Jok Hwe Gwan is the top choice for bibimbap in Jeonju. It took us a while to order because of language. I like their home-style cooking. Besides, side dishes of seasonal vegetables are very healthy and tasty.
說到全州拌飯,「家族會館」是全州人公認的首選。折騰了很久終於點到拌飯套餐(語言無法溝通,哈),雖然是很家常的菜色,但味道很好,青菜很多感覺很健康。
Jeonju Gaeksa
Jeonju Gaeksa (Jeonju Traditional Tourist Inn) was the place to pay homage to the king, and also a place for a royal messenger to stay and to deliver a message from the royal court. Only the main Inn is left now and the whole place is open to everyone. You could see people lying and sitting everywhere and we did it, too.
「全州客舍」是古時覲見國王的地方,同時也供朝廷敕吏留宿及傳達教旨。現在僅存主棟的建築,整個空間都開放給大眾,我們也就跟著或躺或坐的人們一起偷閒一下!
Paper Craft Studio Jidam
There are various Hanji design products, such as lighting, furniture or accessories displayed in "Jidam".
在「紙談」工作室理可以看到許多韓紙作成的如燈具、傢具或飾品等日常物品。
Traditional Liquor Museum
Traditional Liquor Museum exhibits the history and making process of traditional home brewed liquor. There is also a shop selling these liquors. I was planning to buy the famous "Leegang" liquor, but the shopkeeper was taking a nap at that time, so I couldn't make it... what a shame.
The calligraphy hang in the shop is interesting.
這是商店裡的擺飾,圖文並茂的書法還蠻有趣的!
Oh my god~ It's Ka Rang's house...
Frankly speaking, my knowledge of Jeonju first comes from the drama "Danpot". Although it's not a big hit, I quite like it and that's also the reason why I choose to visit Jeonju. I was so excited to find this house, because it's the place where the leading actress (Choi Kang Hee) lived. Very glad to see it... wow. In reality, it belongs to a couple who are masters of Pansori Gayagum(가야금).
老實說,我對全州最早的認識是來自韓劇「紅豆麵包」,雖然這部戲不是很有名,但是我相當地喜歡,同時也是我會想來全州的最大原因。無意中在傳統酒博物館附近發現到這棟房子讓我非常地興奮,因為這正是劇中女主角的家。超高興的,哈!事實上,這裡是國寶級板索里(韓國清唱)及伽倻琴(韓國古箏)大師金榮子跟金一球的傳授所。
Omokdae and Imokdae
Omokdae is a meaningful place for Jeonju people, because Taejo Lee Seonggae who founded Joseon Dynasty once threw outdoor banquet in Omokdae when they were returning to Jeonju in triumph.
梧木台是個意義不凡的地方,因為朝鮮王朝開基太祖李成桂原籍全州,當年在征戰勝利後,曾在這處位於小山丘上的梧木台,大宴宗親。
Many poems were inscribed underneath the ceiling in Omokdae.
Imokdae is much smaller than Omokdae, and it was built as a landmark to memorise Taejo Lee Seonggae's former residence.
小的梨木台,則是為了紀念李成桂祖居之處而建的地標。
An overlook of hanokmaeul
This overlook of hanokmaeul was shot near Omokdae. These traditional houses make Jeonju Hanokmaeul a historic theme park.
這是在梧木台旁邊照的俯視圖,古色古香的韓屋村就像是個復古的主題樂園。
The 600-year-old gingko tree
In our map this tree is supposed to be a 600-year-old gingko tree, maybe that's why it's so bald.
這棵樹在地圖上標示為600年銀杏樹,看起來像是個禿頭。
Traditional Oriental medicine culture center
We had a physical constitution examination here by using computers. They will print out the report after you finish it, and the report will show you what kind of physical constitution you are and what should you do to improve it.
我們在「韓方文化中心」裡用電腦作了四象體質的檢測,檢測結束後可以印出報告書,並有如何改善體質的建議。
Mokuheon
Mokuheon is the exhibition center and workroom of carpenter Kim Jongyeon, successor of skill(No. 2005-2). This wooden sign is pretty cute.
「牡牛軒」是技藝傳承人金宗衍木匠的工作坊兼展示館,木製的招牌相當可愛!
Jeonju luxury goods hall
You could appreciate and buy craft-work, such as Korean paper, woodcraft and textile here. I found this beautiful window frame, and bought a Taegeukseon as well.
在「全州名品館」可參觀跟選購以全州傳統工藝如韓紙、木工、織品等製作的紀念品……在這裡發現了漂亮的窗戶,還買了一支太極扇。
A graceful teahouse
There is a inviting teahouse opposite Jeonju luxury goods hall. It's quit tiny inside, but the cosy atmosphere and lovely decoration left a good impression.
在「全州名品館」的對面,有一家小小的茶館吸引了我們的目光。茶館內的空間雖然狹小,但溫馨且別緻的佈置讓人留下了很深刻的印象。
I ordered jujube tea, and Suping chose five flavour tea. Sweet tea offered with savory rice crackers are a perfect match.
我點了紅棗茶,而淑萍點了五味茶,甜甜的茶配上鹹鹹的仙貝非常的對味。
Postcardesque sunset
The sunset above the tiled roof musters nostalgia, and I presume this view deserves to be a postcard.
在瓦屋頂上的夕陽別有一番懷舊的氛圍,很有明信片的feel。
A feast of abundance
Before having our afternoon tea, we passed by "Gyo Dong Korean Cuisine" and were attracted by its "delicious" poster, therefore we decided to have our dinner here. It just costed us about NTD 400 per person to have a substantial meal in this Korean-style house which is really a worthwhile experience. We also tried "nurungji" here for the first time.
喝茶之前,經過了「校同韓食」這間餐廳,餐廳外牆上豐盛的餐點圖片讓我們很心動,於是晚上便決定到這用餐。韓屋式的空間配上超級豐盛的菜餚(20幾盤菜耶),而且一個人大概台幣400元的花費,真的是一個非常超值的用餐體驗!這也是我們第一次嘗到傳統的鍋巴湯。
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