03/11 Insadong, I’m coming… 仁寺洞，我來了~－Hsin-Hsin's palace

Today we are going to explore Seoul's traditional cityscape, so Insadong, we're coming…

今天要發覺首爾傳統的另一面，所以仁寺洞，我們來了~

Seoul Backpacker

We moved to another accommodation called “Seoul Backpacker” today. It’s cheaper and close to many tourist spots. Our first room was quite nice, but the bathroom’s drain was stuck and the floor was overflowed with water. We changed to another room after we came back from Jeonju. There was an awful smell in this room and we had no floor-heating. Though the staff is quite helpful, the room quality is unpleasant.

今天我們搬到另一個住宿點「Seoul Backpacker」，不但比較便宜，而且離市區景點也非常近。第一天的房間還不錯，可是廁所的排水口竟然堵住，結果整個廁所搞得像淹水一樣。從全州回來後，換住到另一個房間。這個房間裡不但沒有暖氣，而且一直聞到一股臭味。雖然工作人員人還不錯，但房間品質讓人很失望。

Two jangseungs in Insadong

Insadong is the best area to experience Korean traditional culture. It’s filled with antique shops, Korean souvenir shops and traditional restaurants. We found these two totem poles near the southern entrance of Insadong. After doing some googling, I found it was called” jangseung”. Jngseung is a Korean totem pole usually made of wood or stone. Jangseungs were traditionally placed at the edges of villages to mark for village boundaries and frighten away demons. They were also worshipped as village tutelary deities.

仁寺洞是體驗韓國傳統文化的最佳購物大街。這裡有許多骨董店，紀念品店及餐廳。在仁寺洞南端的入口處發現了這兩根有趣的石柱，經過我一番研究，才知道它的名字叫「長丞」，長丞是舊時韓國作為界標、路標和洞裡守護神而立在道邊、路口、村莊附近的人像。長丞的起源很早，是名間信仰的一種守護神。

Experience Korea's past

We turned into a tiny alley that was full of Korean traditional restaurants. I enjoy the atmosphere of the past, but my friend said it might cost a lot to eat there.

轉入某個小巷子裡，有很多韓國傳統餐廳。古意盎然的建築別有一番風味，不過聽我朋友說吃ㄧ頓可能所費不眥。

This is Ssamziegil~

Since I first heard about Ssamziegil's story, I've dreamed to visit it. As to what does "Ssamzie" mean, my friend said it is the name of a kind of old purse.

自從看到了不少關於Ssamziegil（Ssamzie market）的介紹後，我就一直很想來看看這個地方。至於為什麼叫Ssamzie，我朋友說Ssamzie是以前的一種錢包的名字。

In the Ssamziegil Building there are numerous galleries all located within the building. These galleries exhibit and sell traditional crafts by young artists, pottery, sculptures, bags, shoes and more. It was a pity that most shops were photography prohibited.

在Ssamziegil裡集合了許多小店，販賣著他們自己設計的商品，像是傳統的漆器、陶器、飾品外，此外也有現代的飾品、衣服、鞋子、文具等。很多店都不能拍照十分可惜！

Near the entrance, we could see these beautifully arranged signs on the wall. They function not only as a map but also as an lovely installation.

在入口處旁的門牌展示，不但像是個地圖，也是個美觀的裝置。

You could find a lot of natural elements employed in this building's design, such as these huge flowers around stairs and a huge log and poster in the square. The photo on this poster was shot by Korean photographer Myoung Ho Lee (www.lensculture.com/myoung_ss.html). I like its pure and peaceful atmosphere very much. You might think this work is quite normal , but after knowing its production process, you will definitely change your mind. It's intriguing~

在這裡可以看到許多將大自然元素融入建築裡的設計，像這個盛開在樓梯間的花藤，以及在一樓廣場的巨大樹幹及海報。海報上的照片是攝影師Myoung Ho Lee的作品。我喜歡這張照片單純寧靜的感覺，或許你會覺得這個作品不怎麼樣，但看過了拍攝過程後我相信你一定會改觀的。這個作品真的很有意思～

Sinsinwon's chacharoni

After watching the drama "Fantastic couple", I've become a fan of chacharoni. I've only tried the fast noodle in Taiwan, so I really fancy the real one. Chinese restaurant Sinsinwon's chacharoni is very famous in Insadong, and there will be a cook making noodle in the window.

自從看了「幻想情侶」後，就迷上了韓式炸醬麵。在台灣我只吃過泡麵的，所以一直很想吃吃看真正的炸醬麵。中國料理新新圓在仁寺洞相當有名，店櫥窗還會有師父示範手打麵。

Because I didn't feel very well at that time, so I could hardly remember the taste of it. All I remember is the noodle was quite chewing and the sweet and sour pork was very tasty.

因為那天腸胃不適，所以有點忘記麵的味道，只記得麵還蠻有嚼勁的。我們還點了糖醋肉，酸酸甜甜非常好吃！

Unhyeongung Palace

Before meeting my friend, we went to Unhyeongung first. Unhyeongung is a grand palace-like house where Daewongun (king's father) lived in the drama "Queen Myeongseong" Because it's not a real palace, so the buildings weren't unpainted and remain the original color of woods. Standing with Yanggwan Building, they make a contrast of old and new, eastern and western.

在和我朋友見面之前，我們先跑到雲峴宮晃晃。雲峴宮是明成皇后裡大院君（皇帝的父親）居住的地方。因為它不是真正的宮殿，所以房子沒有經過彩繪而保有木材的原始色調。雲峴宮的古建築跟在背後的德成女大東國洋館，呈現了一種有趣的古今／東西對比。

Beautiful brick-wall and toilet's interesting sign in Unhyeongung all surprised us very much.

雲峴宮裡美麗的磚牆跟廁所告示牌的設計，皆令我們為之驚喜。

Street food in Insadong

Another enjoyment in Insadion is its street food. On the opposite side of Sinsinwon, there is a famous stall serves hotteok. It has been on TV and is always a queue front it. "Hotteok" is a fried pancake made of glutinous rice, brown sugar, and peanuts. After frying, the brown sugar will melt and drip down your front! It's yummy and tastes like donuts~

仁寺洞另一個引人入勝的地方是路上的小吃。在新新圓的對面有個賣糖餅的小攤非常出名，有上過電視而且排隊的人不少。這個用糯米做的糖餅，裡面包了黑糖跟花生，用油煎了之後黑糖會有爆漿的效果，口感有點像兩相好，還蠻好吃的！

I also tried a tuna kimbap. Compare with Japanese sushi, it has a strong flavour of sesame and makes a delicious snack.

我還吃了一個鮪魚口味的海苔包飯，跟日本壽司不太一樣的是，海苔包飯有很濃的麻油香，當點心吃還不錯！

Haehwa's Nolboo experience

We went to Haehwa's Nolboo for dinner. Nolboo is a famous restaurant chain in Korean, and it has various brands. What we visited is Nolboojib Hangari Galbi (pork rib), and we ordered the Modeun Gui. The Modeum Gui is the menu which provides all menus of Nolboojib Hangari Galbi by serving spicy galbi, mild galbi, samgyeopsal, sausage and onion, corn, and sweet potato on the lid of the Korean traditional pod and the price is low. It's like barbecue, but you need to cut the meat by scissors while you grill it that is quite exciting. The cooking order is from mild to heavy, so we began with samgyeopsal, then mild galbi, and finally spicy galbi. Following Soyoung oni's instruction to wrap meat with lettuce leaves was full of fun.

今天的晚餐安排到惠化的部隊鍋吃烤肉。部隊鍋是韓國有名的連鎖餐廳，旗下分成很多系列，今天吃的是屋瓦罐排骨系列。我們點了經濟實惠的烤拼盤，裡面能吃到這個系列所有的菜色，有辣味排骨、淡味排骨、五花肉、香腸符、洋蔥、玉米和地瓜。這些菜都放在瓦罐蓋上，吃的時候就像吃碳烤一樣把菜放在鐵網上烤，唯一不同的是肉要自己用剪刀邊烤邊剪，相當的有挑戰性。調味的濃淡決定了烤肉的順序，所以我們先烤原味的五花肉，然後是淡味排骨，最後才是辣味排骨。依樣畫葫蘆地跟著Soyoung姐用菜包肉吃起來，非常好玩。